First, Figure Out Which Project You Are In
There isn't one correct answer to a home improvement project. That's the first thing I tell people when they ask whether to DIY. I work in quality for a plumbing fixture company. I review every fixture before it ships—roughly 500 units a month. Maybe 480, I'd have to check. Last year I rejected about 4% of first deliveries because of finish flaws, misaligned parts, or packaging that didn't protect the product. So I've learned that a good installation starts before the box is open.
If you're here because you searched Delta pull down kitchen faucet or Delta shower doors, pause. The right move depends on which scenario you're in, not just which product you want.
Three scenarios at a glance
- Scenario A: Replacing an existing kitchen faucet. A DIY-friendly upgrade.
- Scenario B: Installing a shower valve and shower doors. Plan carefully or hire a pro.
- Scenario C: Adding a small home elevator. A construction project, not a fixture project.
Scenario A: The Delta Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet
Let's start with the one most people are actually searching for: the Delta pull-down kitchen faucet. If there's already a faucet in place, the water lines are standard, and the countertop isn't exotic stone, this is a genuinely satisfying Saturday project. The magnetic docking is a real quality feature—I check it on every sample. If the spray head doesn't snap back cleanly, it goes back. And the limited lifetime warranty covers parts and finish (Source: deltafaucet.com, accessed January 2025).
Tools? A basin wrench, plumber's tape, a bucket, a towel, and an adhesive remover. The adhesive remover is the step people skip. Old silicone under a new deck plate will turn a $250 faucet into a leaning tower. Use it as directed, let it work, then scrape.
Before you order, open your check register—or whatever spreadsheet you use—and add the real numbers. A faucet runs $150–$350. Add $30 for tools you'll reuse. Compare that to a plumber's first-hour rate. If your shutoff valves won't turn, stop and call a plumber for that part. That's the one condition I'd put in the not-a-DIY column.
Scenario B: Delta Shower Doors and Valve Work—This One Is Less DIY
When you move past faucets, the game changes. A Delta shower doors installation (really, any tiled shower enclosure) is a system: substrate, waterproofing, track, hinge, glass, and slope. If the old shower was installed without waterproofing behind the tile, new glass won't fix the leak—it'll just direct it somewhere new.
The most frustrating part of this work is that the same mistakes happen even with clear written specs. You'd think a rough-in drawing would be enough, but interpretation varies wildly. We didn't have a formal verification checklist for shower door rough-ins, and that cost us—a contractor returned 12 door units because three didn't fit the opening. That was a 2023 lesson. Now every order includes a dimension signoff. I should add that we'd been lucky for years before that. Luck runs out.
For your project, hire a licensed plumber for the valve and drain rough-in. For the glass, you can DIY with a helper if you have construction experience—but be honest about your tolerance for handling a 6-foot pane. The adhesive remover comes back out for old silicone and mounting tape on the track. If the bottom track isn't sloped outward, water pools. Check with a level before you set the glass. I'm glad I double-checked the rough-in height before ordering our last enclosure. Almost measured from the old tub lip—that would have left a gap you could slide a coin through.
Contractor estimates for a straightforward door and valve replacement often land in the $1,800–$3,500 range, depending on tile, glass, and finish (based on mixed quotes from our service calls, January 2025; verify current pricing). That's a lot. A failed glass install costs way more.
Scenario C: How Much Does a Small Home Elevator Cost?
If your project is about accessibility—aging in place, a family member with limited mobility, or future-proofing—a small home elevator is a different beast. So, how much does a small home elevator cost? Generally $20,000–$40,000 installed, based on quotes from three residential elevator vendors in January 2025. Some basic units quote around $18,000; pneumatic models and custom cabs push higher. That doesn't include electrical upgrades, permits, or structural work.
This is not a weekend project, and it's not something to self-manage unless you do construction professionally. I'll be honest about my own limits: elevator work is outside my lane. I know fixtures and finish tolerances, not hoistway codes. But I do know the difference between a product spec and a marketing price. If someone quotes you a 'starting at' price, ask for the installed, code-compliant total. Then open your check register and write the real number next to your budget.
How to Tell Which Scenario You're In
Stop basing the decision on the product alone. Base it on the work around the product. Ask yourself:
- Am I replacing something that already exists with the same footprint? Scenario A.
- Am I changing the plumbing, tile, drain, or glass? Scenario B.
- Am I altering the structure or footprint of my house? Scenario C.
A Delta pull-down kitchen faucet is a great first upgrade. Delta shower doors are a 'hire help if you can' upgrade. A small home elevator? That's a 'hire the right people' project. There's no universal best—just the best fit for the work you're ready to do. If a product isn't right for your situation, I'd rather tell you now than after you've bought it.
