Who This Checklist Is For

If you've just bought a Delta rain shower head and handheld combo (like the Trinsic or Linden series), this list is for you. It's not a generic plumbing guide—it's the checklist I use when I'm auditing the final product after installation. I'm a quality compliance manager at a mid-sized plumbing distributor, and I review roughly 200+ shower installations annually. Over the years I've flagged about 15% of first-time installs for rework, mostly because people skip one or two seemingly small steps. This checklist covers the seven things I check every time—and a couple that most installers overlook.

How to Use This List

Go through each step in order. Each one has a verification point. If something fails the check, pause and fix it before moving on. It'll save you a call to customer support—or worse, a wet ceiling.

Step 1: Verify the Valve Body Is Set Correctly

Before you even touch the shower head, make sure the valve body (the part behind the wall) is properly oriented. Delta's MultiChoice valve is universal, but it still needs to be installed plumb and square. Check point: The valve's hot water inlet should be on the left (if you're facing the wall). If it's reversed, the handle will turn the wrong way, and you'll get inconsistent temperature control. I've seen this twice this year alone. Don't assume the plumber got it right—verify.

Oh, and one more thing: if you're using a pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve, make sure the cartridge is seated all the way. A loose cartridge can cause a slow drip behind the tile that you won't notice until the mold shows up. That's a $2,000+ redo.

Step 2: Check the Shower Arm Depth and Angle

For a rain shower head, the arm needs to extend far enough from the wall that you don't bump your head, but not so far that it looks awkward. I recommend a 12-inch arm for most ceilings. Check point: With the head attached, the bottom edge should be at least 7 inches from the wall. Use a tape measure—don't eyeball it. And here's the part most people miss: the arm should slope slightly downward toward the head (maybe 1°–2°). If it's perfectly level, water will pool in the head and drip after you turn off the shower. If it slopes upward, you'll get air in the line and sputtering. I learned this the hard way when I installed my own and had to redo the drywall.

Step 3: Verify the Handheld Bracket Height and Reach

The handheld component usually comes with a wall-mounted bracket or a sliding bar. The standard height for the bracket is 48 inches from the floor (center of the bracket). That works for most adults, but if you're taller or have kids, adjust accordingly. Check point: With the hose attached, the handheld should reach the floor of the tub or shower pan without stretching. If the hose is too short (common with off-brand brackets), you'll constantly fight with tangling. Delta's hoses are typically 60 inches—enough for most setups. But verify before you mount anything.

Step 4: Apply Thread Sealant Correctly (Not Too Much, Not Too Little)

I can't tell you how many times I've seen either dripping joints from too little sealant or clogged screens from too much. Check point: Use Teflon tape (PTFE) on the threaded male connections. Wrap it clockwise (looking at the end of the pipe) 3–4 times, covering all threads but leaving the first thread exposed. If you use pipe dope (joint compound), apply a thin bead to the male threads only. When you tighten, the excess should squeeze out—wipe it off immediately. A single blob inside the shower head can restrict flow and make the spray uneven. I rejected a batch of 200 shower heads in Q1 2024 because the supplier had left sealant residue in the screens.

Step 5: Test for Leaks with the Head On (Yes, On)

"Test with the head off" is common advice. I disagree. Check point: Install the shower head and handheld fully, then turn the water on to full hot and full cold. Run it for 2 minutes. Inspect every joint—the arm-to-valve connection, the head-to-arm connection, the hose connections at both ends, and the bracket mounting screws. Water can weep from places you'd never think to check. A pinhole leak behind a tile will cost you far more than the 30 seconds it takes to look. So glad I adopted this test—almost skipped it once and missed a loose bracket that would have leaked into the wall.

Step 6: Balance the Handheld Diverter or Slide Bar

Most Delta combos use a diverter on the shower head to switch between rain and handheld. Or you might have a separate slide bar. Check point: When the diverter is engaged to the handheld, the flow should be strong and steady—not a trickle. If the flow is weak, it usually means the diverter isn't fully seated (can happen if you cross-threaded it). Also, check that the slide bar doesn't slide down on its own under the weight of the hose. Delta's bars usually have a locking mechanism; make sure it's engaged. If I'm being honest, I'm not sure why some slide bars creep down over time—my best guess is thermal expansion of the plastic. But either way, test it hot and cold.

Step 7: Do the "Splash Test" for Rain Heads

Rain shower heads are notorious for splashing if the flow rate is too high or the head is too close to the body. Check point: Stand (or sit) in the actual shower position and turn the water on to normal pressure. The water should hit you in a broad, gentle pattern—not a jet that ricochets off the back wall and hits your face. If it splashes excessively, you might need to reduce the flow with a flow restrictor (Delta heads usually come with a 2.5 GPM restrictor, but some older models might have 2.0 GPM). An informed customer once told me: "I'd rather spend 10 minutes adjusting the flow than deal with a wet bathroom floor every morning." He was right.

Common Mistakes to Watch Out For

  • Over-tightening: Snug + a quarter turn is enough. Beyond that, you risk cracking the plastic collar on the shower head. A friend had to replace a brand-new Delta head because he used a wrench—finger-tight with a rubber grip is usually sufficient.
  • Forgetting the rubber washers: Some installers think Teflon tape replaces the rubber washer. No. Delta includes a rubber washer in every head. If you omit it, the metal-on-metal connection will leak slowly. I learned never to assume the washer is pre-installed; sometimes it falls out in the box.
  • Using the wrong hose adapter: The handheld hose may come with a small adapter for different connection sizes. If your setup uses a 3/8" tube, you'll need it. If you skip it, the hose won't tighten fully and will leak at the first use.
  • Not checking for debris in the supply lines: If you recently did any plumbing work, sediment can lodge in the shower head screen. Run the water for 5 seconds before attaching the head to flush the line. Otherwise, you'll be wondering why the spray pattern is erratic.

One last thing: Delta's warranty covers defects, not installation errors. Going through this checklist takes maybe 15 minutes, and it could save you a Saturday afternoon of taking the head back off. I've seen too many people skip step 4 or 5 and end up with a slow leak that ruins their ceiling. Dodged a bullet myself when I double-checked the hand-tightness before glueing the tile.

If you run into an issue that isn't on this list, don't hesitate to call Delta's support line—they're pretty good. But honestly, 90% of the installation problems I audit come down to one of these seven points. (Should mention: the other 10% are usually valve alignment issues that require a plumber.) So take this checklist, go step by step, and your Delta combo will work like it should—no leaks, no frustration, just a solid shower.